Marshdillion

A special kind of cowboy hat: the western movie hat finds a new owner

Note from the Beaver Creek Pioneer editorial team

Dear readers of the Beaver Creek Pioneer,

It was with heavy hearts that we informed you that our valued friend and loyal reporter for the Beaver Creek Pioneer, Peter Jakob Klein, passed away in January 2022.

Having already shared everything worth knowing about the cowboy hat in his article "Let's Talk About Hats", part 2 of his report series now follows.

Before he had to go into hospital and undergo an operation, Peter sent us the report "Let's Talk About Hats - Volume 2 - The Western Movie Hat". With the kind permission of his family, we don't want to withhold Peter's "last report" from you.

We once again mourn the loss of a valuable and intelligent person and deeply regret that we can no longer draw on his extensive knowledge of the Wild West.

This is Peter's last report, written for all hobbyists. We hope that you enjoy reading this report despite the sad circumstances.

Best regards,

Chet and Colton

Story by Peter Jakob Klein a.k.a marshdillion

"Give it heat and water!"

A western movie town hat gets a new life!

Cowboy hats from a 'Western movie town' are something special! I got my 'first' one in 1988 on the set of the then-produced "Desperado" TV mini-series in Mescal, a town in Cochise County, Arizona, USA.

Among others, the western movie milestone "Tombstone" (1993) was also filmed there. The studios were initially closed due to the emerging western film slump and are currently on the verge of being restored and reopened.

The 'Mescal Movie Set', near Tucson, Arizona, U.S.A.; a part of the movie history of the United States of America (Mescal Movie Set, ©Kartchner Ventures LLC).

Rarity: Original western movie cowboy hat prop

In order to get hold of such a film hat, which is usually quite 'used' and sometimes damaged, you need to be on site with:

a) a friendly contact person,

b) a lot of persuasion and

c) one or two bottles of high-proof spirits!

Recently I restored a well-preserved, dark brown example from my collection, which I acquired in 2008 from the costume stock of the 'Bonanza Creek Film Location' in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Work on the western "Appaloosa", by and with Ed Harris, had just been completed there.

Cleaned and dented: the BAILEY is waiting for its 'therapy'!

Restoration work required for this cowboy hat

The BAILEY Western Cowboy Hat, which I was allowed to purchase after 'detailed negotiations', had a torn sweatband and the inner lining had been lost. Although the hat was dirty, it came in a 4xxxx Fur Felt Quality and otherwise had no flaws (this could still be deciphered on the remains of the torn sweatband).

First, I brushed off the dirt and then sent it to a trusted milliner. He sewed me a new, neutral leather sweatband and part 1 of the restoration was done.

With new sweatband and already stitched round.

Step by step to the goal

Next, I put the hat on a wooden 'hat block'. The hat-making device dates back to the early 20th century and can be widened using a twist grip. Depending on the width turned up, the corresponding hat size - the head circumference - is displayed on a scale. I make sure that I don't overstretch the hat, otherwise the seam of the sweatband would tear.

In this position, I soak the hat crown with warm water. Felt needs heat and moisture (during processing). This allows me to give it a final clean and remove any stains.

Then I take the hat off the block again, give it heat (a hot water kettle from grandma's time is ideal for this!) and put it back on the device. Now that the felt can be stretched, I give the hat an 'open crown' shape by stretching it with the hat block. On this basis, it will finally get its final shape!

You need a good sense of touch on the tensioning block: too much stretch does not suit the hat.

I still had an original BAILEY hat lining in my own stash, which I cleaned and later inserted into the hat.

Special cowboy hats also need an original hat lining!

The finishing touches: Hatband, brim and crown

After a good 24 hours on the clamping block, the hat acquired its desired basic appearance.

A tailor friend of mine is now sewing around the brim of my hat.

The 10 cm wide hat brim was perfect for a 'kettle curl' (half-round curled brim edge). I achieve this stabilizing effect with a 'Hat Brim Curling Tool', which is made from a particularly hard type of maple wood. This inconspicuous device, which I use to curl the brim, is handmade and therefore not cheap.

The BAILEY was then given a new, authentic fabric hatband.

Final touches before completion

You should work quickly during this styling process and give the hat repeated bursts of hot steam. I can use a small, damp sponge to soften the edges of the 'dots' (indentations) and give the entire crown a smooth overall appearance.

You should work quickly during this styling process and give the hat repeated bursts of hot steam. I can use a small, damp sponge to soften the edges of the 'dots' (indentations) and give the entire crown a smooth overall appearance.

Now it is time to insert the hat lining and give the brim its final shape. To do this, I apply heat steam to the brim edge again. The curve of my ribcage serves as a support to give the brim of the hat the desired shape, sloping at the front and back.

Reaching your goal through experience, time and patience

The fully styled, restored 'object of desire' went to my friend Jürgen Wagner in November 2021; and HE was happy with it!

Yours P e t e
a.k.a. marshdillion

Das vollendete Original!

About a cowboy's sanctuary - the cowboy hat

Nebraska Territory, 1862. In the midst of a snowstorm, a certain James Butler Hickok rumbles into a snowed-in horse station. The at that time 25 years old good-for-nothing, gambler and day laborer has not yet taken his role in the just begun war of secession. That's when he meets five outlaws by pure chance in this godforsaken outpost. One of these unlucky ones makes the mistake of brushing Hickok's fur cap off his head. - What follows is a sequence of 20 seconds; between minute 8:37 and minute 8:57; in the cult western "Wild Bill"; starring Jeff Bridges ... - At the end of the scene the outlaws have all been busted and a bone-dry 'Wild Bill' Hickok speaks the famous sentence and at the same time the credo of every Old West buff;

Never touch another man’s hat!

– James Butler Hickok in “Wild Bill“ with Jeff Bridges

An old STETSON cowboy hat from a 'Movie-Town' in New Mexico, U.S.A.; in its heyday STETSON sold 3 million hats a year.

The cowboy hat as a mark of personality

Nothing else identifies the Western hobbyist - in the cowboy section - as clearly as the hat he wears! When I took up the hobby in the 1970s, the advisors who helped me put together my outfit overwhelmed me with their expertise. But there was only one thing these 'old timers' agreed on: the hat had to fit me and my 'alias'! And, of course, it had to be a STETSON ! And since I wanted to portray a simple, nameless cowboy, I got to know the archetype of the 'US-American Cowboy Hat': the 'Boss of the Plains'; or, as it is also called, the 'Austral', the 'Mormon Hat' or simply the 'Open Crown'.

Two STETSON hats: a brown, low 'Open Crown' in "Scout Style"; and a black 'Boss Of The Plains' in 4x buffalo quality.

Two further 'Open Crown' examples; the black hat comes in "Preacher Style"; the light one in typical, worn "Drover Style".

The shape of the hat - reflection of a hard life

Due to the constant use of the hat, the permanent effects of weather and the use for other purposes - it had to serve both as a 'watering bucket' for the horse and as a 'pillow' for the exhausted cowboy - the good piece lost its original shape quite quickly. However, the easy to reshape felt made it possible for the Drovers to bring their hats into shape over and over again. And this is how the various shapes of hats came into being, each of which was ultimately used as a distinctive mark of its owner.

'What'll it be!?"-The countless opportunities of customizing the shape of a hat; © Craig Staker, STAKER Hats.

Many hats found their way from the military into the bunkhouses of the ranches. These were often wide-brimmed officers' hats with crowns that were also notable for their height.

Imposing brim widths of 4 ½" and crown heights of 6 ½" give their owners plenty of room to 'style' these hats individually.

John B. Stetson - Hat fashion for cowboys & gentlemen

After John B. Stetson began to manufacture hats, among other things, in his company in Saint Joseph, Missouri, starting in 1865 and threw them on a 'hungry market', the triumphal march of the 'STETSON' cowboy hat was unstoppable. Cattle drives from the South to the Midwest slaughterhouses of the fledgling U.S. had begun in the 1850s. And the young 'drovers' - or 'cow boys' - initially still wore the headgear of their fathers, for example, that they had brought with them from the 'Old World/Europe': caps, knitted woolen hats or hats of townspeople and farmers. There were also hats of Mexican origin.

A traditional company on the rise

In the 1880s, the target audience was the 'cowboys'; after the turn of the century, it was the movie industry and the fancy crowd; and today, the STETSON Co. seems to be looking for a way to reconcile tradition with today's consumer behavior and bring it to a reasonable level ...

The saloon as a catwalk. The pictures were taken by me (authorized reporter) at the 'Western Council 2004' and carry my copyright.

The cowboy hat - it's more than just a "hobby

Since I have been active in the hobby, hundreds of hats have passed through my hands. I have collected them, I have traded them; and I have given them away to friends. The whole "dilemma" continues to this day!